Tuning Notes

When setting the IAC, make sure the car is fully warmed up. It does not matter if it's open or closed loop.
IAC - keep around 10-20 in PARK, not real critical, just keep it under 30 and not bottomed at zero. It is normal for the IAC to jump up higher in DRIVE.
TPS - keep around .42-.46v closed throttle, do not exceed .48v. For WOT, no less than 4.00, 4.40 to 4.60 is a good safe place to be. Don't exceed 4.80.

- Keep at least one screen in the MAF if it's a stock MAF. If both screens are gone, the calibration will likely go too lean and run very cruddy. For newer MAF's, like the LT1 and LS1, I recommend leaving the screen in, although some people have done ok without it.

- If you have a Translator, Translator+, Gen II, or Pro, it will need to be set correctly for this chip. For the regular Translator, the BASE setting should be set to match your MAF sensor ("0" for the LS1, "3" for the LT1), and the WOT setting should be at 0. The 4 small white switches should be set to ON, ON, ON, OFF. You can use the BASE rich or lean settings to bump the BLM's up or down if they are more than 10-12 numbers away from 128.

- The chip relies on a somewhat accurate MPH signal for variable timing, launch fuel control, and other things. Try and keep the speedo and related VSS sensor in working order to take advantage of the special features in the chip.

- EGR function is turned off. This is not an emissions chip! The car will run fine without it.

- The chip has open loop idle and the O2’s will typically settle around 750-850 at idle. There is still some learning capability for idle to keep the mixture right. The idle blm cell is not locked to 128, it will learn like the other cells, just a little slower. I can re-enable closed loop idle if you wish, but the idle will not be as smooth and you may lose a tiny bit of off-idle throttle response.

- Most chips are set up with a 800rpm idle. The bigger the injector, the higher the idle speed. The 60lb chips are about 825rpm, the 72/75lb injector chips are set at 850rpm, and the 83/84lb are 900rpm.

- I calibrate the chips at 43psi fuel pressure, but feel free to adjust it for your car if necessary, although you normally should not need to change it. If you have to go further than +/- 5psi from 43, then there may be something else wrong.

- There may be a boost level written on the chip. There should be enough fuel at WOT programmed into the chip to achieve that boost level (providing the octane is enough). Each car is a little different and may tolerate more or less boost.

-On chips with the fuel set up for high boost, such as a race chip, it will most likely be too rich if you run the boost much lower than whats written on the chip.